Oils are a real cosmetic treasure for skin and hair. But between the many vegetable oils and mineral oils, it is not easy to navigate. Their compositions are very different and cosmetic oils do not all have the same virtues. Find out how to choose and use oils to enhance your skin and hair!
An oil is a liquid fatty substance at room temperature. Vegetable oils and mineral oils are used in cosmetics for skin and hair care. Their methods of obtaining and their compositions are very different.
Mineral oils
Mineral oils, derived from hydrocarbons, are derived from petrochemicals . They are obtained by distillation of coal, oil or shale. This category includes liquid paraffin (called paraffinum liquidum or petrolatum) or silicones (siloxanes, for example, are widely used in cosmetics). These oils of fossil origin are odorless and colorless.
Vegetable oils
Vegetable oils are mostly from fruits or seeds of plants. There are several processes for extracting vegetable oils:
Oily macerates
Some vegetable oils are actually oily macerates. This maceration technique is used when mechanical extraction processes are not possible.
The plant part of interest (such as the flowers of St. John's wort for example) is then left to macerate in an oil of another plant species (olive oil for example). The monoï is another example. This Polynesian recipe corresponds to a macerate of tiare flowers in vegetable coconut oil.
Whether mineral or vegetable, oils applied to the skin or hair form a lipid film (oily film) which prevents water from evaporating. They promote hydration , and have an emollient power , that is to say, they soften the skin tissue.
Despite these common properties, the respective compositions and virtues of mineral oils and vegetable oils are very different.
Nutritional content of oils
Mineral oils generally have good skin tolerance and are very stable, ie they do not go rancid. However, they provide no nutrients to the skin. They also have a negative impact on the environment. Mineral oils, derived from hydrocarbons, are not biodegradable. The way they are produced releases greenhouse gases into the air, as well as many air pollutants. There is a risk of soil and water pollution from the oil industries.
vegetable oils packed with nutrients which help nourish the skin and ensure the proper functioning of the skin barrier:
Their protective antioxidant properties fight against aging and loss of skin elasticity.
Choose your vegetable oil
Always prefer virgin vegetable oils , and if possible first cold pressing . Mechanical extraction processes at low temperature respect the initial composition of vegetable oils.
Choosing an organic vegetable oil ensures you a quality raw material from organic farming avoiding traces of pesticides. In addition, an untreated plant must defend itself more against infectious agents and pests:it is likely to synthesize more nutrients. For more information, read our article on organic.
In order to sublimate the body and the hair, a few drops of vegetable oils are enough for a luminous aspect of the skin and the hair without greasing them too much. It's up to you to find your favorite formula!
Vegetable oils each have a particular texture and benefits. It is possible to use them pure , but also in mix . We can thus reduce the excessively greasy appearance of an oil, or increase the nutritional value of oils for local applications on the skin of the face or body, nails and hair.
Face and body care:which oil for which skin type?
Depending on their textures, some vegetable oils are more suitable for certain skin types:
Do not hesitate to mix these different vegetable oils to obtain a formula that suits you perfectly. To make argan oil more fluid, you can mix it with a more penetrating vegetable oil like apricot kernel oil!
Hair care
Many vegetable oils have a repairing effect on damaged, dry or dull hair . They tighten the scales of the hair fibers, nourish the hair and the scalp, unify and illuminate the hair. We will choose in particular:
For oily hair and scalp , jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis ) is more appropriate.
Pure or blended oils are to be distributed as a mask on the hair. The oily aspect is not suitable for everyone, you can apply the mask in the evening and leave it on all night before shampoo.
Some oils are ideal for massages because they are not absorbed into the skin too quickly. They lubricate the skin for several minutes and allow an easier massage by avoiding friction. This is the case of Sweet Almond Oil (Prunus amygdalus ), apricot kernel (Prunus armeniaca ) or argan (Argania spinosa ). The skin tissue benefits from their emollient and nourishing power.
Vegetable oils are the most suitable vehicle for diluting essential oils . On the advice of a health professional trained in aromatherapy, you can perform well-being massages. To learn more, read our article on essential oils.
calophyllum vegetable oil (Calophyllum inophyllum ) is regenerating, softening and soothing.
Thick, sweet almond oil (Prunus amygdalus ) also has softening and moisturizing properties and is known to be the most used oil among children.
The oily macerate of St. John's wort (Hypericum perforatum ) is traditionally used to calm skin irritations and soothe itching. Be careful not to expose yourself to the sun after applying this photosensitizing oil!
